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How to insulate a
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Feral Cat Shelter Added Insulation
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>>PHOTOS and ILLUSTRATIONS on this site<<
If you don't like the color, you can paint the container to match your outdoor furniture, shrubbery, concrete or even camouflage it with a couple of special camouflage paints. I have many of these (camo colored), but I am systematically replacing them with the grey ones as I update and make improvements in my design. I had several bright red containers and a couple of bright green ones that I sprayed camo brown and camo green. They look pretty neat!
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*Disclosure: Some links on this website are associate links and are used to help illustrate what an item looks like, and you can decide if you want to just look or purchase the item. "As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases." We receive a small commission (that helps support this website) if you actually purchase from this company, but the price to you remains the same.
You can hover over any link to see if it is an Amazon link, if this matters, or a link to a page on this website or to a reference page, e.g., Smithsonian Institution, bookmark on this website, etc.
You can hover over any link to see if it is an Amazon link, if this matters, or a link to a page on this website or to a reference page, e.g., Smithsonian Institution, bookmark on this website, etc.
EducationDx
©2023
©2023
Keep the cat's enemies in mind when building and placing a shelter!
(foxes, raccoons, dogs, other cats, some humans .....)
I'm always trying to make improvements to my
original economy feral cat shelter plans
.
I try to make any improvements with limited added expenses, particularly for those who have limited financial resources, but have a big heart for these feral kitties. As costs are rapidly rising on most materials, this makes the job increasing difficult.
Note: Use an adhesive that is designed for foam board, e.g., Loctite PL300. Some adhesives will dissolve the foam!
Over the past five years, I thought about some insulation concepts. It is a tough topic, since adding insulation with a small container with two sizable holes seems incongruous. So I began experimenting with just small amount of insulation (rigid foam board). (This size will work if you only have one box, or you can find some similar insulation materials at your local big box store.) Without getting more technical than necessary, it is important to note that the foam board will be exposed to some moisture even when the top is in position., Some types absorb moisture and some are more resistant (XPS).
The white insulation I used in my experiment was some left over foam board from some other project. It is still okay begining this second winter. Also, any insulation should be covered with another protective layer, but I left this exposed to see the effects--P.S.: just a few scratches on a few--my ferals have many trees to scratch instead! Also, ingestion is a concern--but they are all well-fed, and I see no evidence that anyone nibbled on some!
The white insulation I used in my experiment was some left over foam board from some other project. It is still okay begining this second winter. Also, any insulation should be covered with another protective layer, but I left this exposed to see the effects--P.S.: just a few scratches on a few--my ferals have many trees to scratch instead! Also, ingestion is a concern--but they are all well-fed, and I see no evidence that anyone nibbled on some!
When making modifications, I considered the safety factor (having an escape hole) and trying to keep some of the cat's body heat inside the container. Last year, I began to experiment with just adding a thin layer of foam insulation board to the existing container. I glued some 1/2" insulation board to the sides and top (inside). You need to do this in warmer weather and/or inside if it is cold out (to let the adhesive dry/cure). If the board becomes unglued during the season, for any reason, you need to add more adhesive, let it cure, then return the container to the outside.
Insulation board before placing in container
A few weights (bricks) are placed on the bottom portion of the top ("roof") of the container. The weights remain on until cured/dried overnight.
The top is turned upside down to glue on the foam board
It's glue day!
Example
A quarter (coin) size dollop in spots as indicated on the chart will help. As mentioned above, don't skimp on placing the adhesive, but you don't have to use excessive amounts.
Some areas will stick out from the sides since the container is not perfectly flat. That's okay and the air pocket might even help to some degree. Keep the adhesive about 2" from the edge of the board (in red) on the example.
Some areas will stick out from the sides since the container is not perfectly flat. That's okay and the air pocket might even help to some degree. Keep the adhesive about 2" from the edge of the board (in red) on the example.
Always measure-- then dry fit your insulation board before applying adhesive (blue on the example). Observe the contact points between the board and the container.
You need to run a 1/4-3/8" bead of adhesive around the perimeter of the board as well as several strips on the other parts. The container is curved, so a flat board might not stick if you skimp on the adhesive! You can omit places where you find that the board does not make contact with the container, i.e., you can alter the example shown to fit your container.
You need to run a 1/4-3/8" bead of adhesive around the perimeter of the board as well as several strips on the other parts. The container is curved, so a flat board might not stick if you skimp on the adhesive! You can omit places where you find that the board does not make contact with the container, i.e., you can alter the example shown to fit your container.
Winter of 2022-23 Experiment
The purpose of this experiment was to add some insulation to see if it had any effect on the retention of some body heat in the container. Although there were no scientific measurements taken, I think that it was better than no insulation, i.e., a body leaning against the insulation had to be a tad warmer than the cold plastic.
Of course, you can see the obvious flaws to this approach: the foam board did not completely touch every part of the sides, the escape hole continued to let air in and some heat out, the big entrance hole let in wind and the cold., the insulation was too thin.
Covering the entrance hole with plastic, cloth or some other material was tried at several different times and rejected by the cats as well as me. Even if it did work, the amount of wind it would stop and heat loss would be negligible, not to mention it creates a whole new set of problems.
The purpose of this experiment was to add some insulation to see if it had any effect on the retention of some body heat in the container. Although there were no scientific measurements taken, I think that it was better than no insulation, i.e., a body leaning against the insulation had to be a tad warmer than the cold plastic.
Of course, you can see the obvious flaws to this approach: the foam board did not completely touch every part of the sides, the escape hole continued to let air in and some heat out, the big entrance hole let in wind and the cold., the insulation was too thin.
Covering the entrance hole with plastic, cloth or some other material was tried at several different times and rejected by the cats as well as me. Even if it did work, the amount of wind it would stop and heat loss would be negligible, not to mention it creates a whole new set of problems.
A poll taken among my ferals: some say yes, some say no, several are undecided...
Winter of 2023-24 Experiment
In the summer of 2023 (in my spare time, ha ha), I decided to address some of the flaws in my modified "somewhat insulated" cat shelters. I planned on modifying the existing shelters and I purchased a few slightly larger containers (45 gal as opposed to the older 35 gal ones)--but I used a mixture of both.
Unfortunately, I loss several kitties the past year (they are all over 9+ years old), and although I didn't need as many shelters, I decided to add to most of them and keep a few in storage. In the past, I donated some of the older but in good shape ones to my local
Anytime you modify something rather than starting over--you compromise on some things. The basic shelters last several years (depending on various factors), so I didn't want to discard a shelter in relatively good shape. Last year's added insulation was still intact, but one or two needed some extra adhesive on the foam board under the top.
In the summer of 2023 (in my spare time, ha ha), I decided to address some of the flaws in my modified "somewhat insulated" cat shelters. I planned on modifying the existing shelters and I purchased a few slightly larger containers (45 gal as opposed to the older 35 gal ones)--but I used a mixture of both.
Unfortunately, I loss several kitties the past year (they are all over 9+ years old), and although I didn't need as many shelters, I decided to add to most of them and keep a few in storage. In the past, I donated some of the older but in good shape ones to my local
Habitat for Humanity
. I still have 19 active shelters.Anytime you modify something rather than starting over--you compromise on some things. The basic shelters last several years (depending on various factors), so I didn't want to discard a shelter in relatively good shape. Last year's added insulation was still intact, but one or two needed some extra adhesive on the foam board under the top.
The shelters are ready for occupancy!
Keep reading to see the progression....
Of course, the top is place back on when everything is cured/ready.
Straw is added as per the original instructions
Straw is added as per the original instructions
This is EPS because XPS was about twice as much $$$...I am experimenting. This one has a reflective foil backing on the other side.
Don't expect to do fine art work with this stuff...it is messy and STICKY!
It can be used to fill in the gaps left in the 1/2" insulation.
It can be used to fill in the gaps left in the 1/2" insulation.
This photo illustrates the basic layout of the "new" shelter modification.
Of course, the next generation mod will have a new design.
Right click to enlarge photos
So....
About half of my shelters are about a foot away from my house on the opposite side of the most prevalent wind. Also, in the winter, I have them facing the house, so the wind is relatively mild (blowing near the entrance.) The other shelters, I have placed behind objects and or facing away from the wind side. A concrete block placed near the front of the entrance hole appears to block some of the direct wind.
By adding additional insulation, it limits the space that can be occupied by a cat. Since some of them like to pair up to keep warm; this can possibly eliminate or make even this larger container difficult to house two medium-sized cats. This is a compromise + or-.
I left the 1/2" insulation alone, since it was in good shape, and adding more insulation to the sides or top would significantly reduce the space. I purchased a sheet of 2" foam board to use as a divider. One 4 x 8' sheet was enough to do all the shelters (just the entrance divider.)
I left the 1/2" insulation alone, since it was in good shape, and adding more insulation to the sides or top would significantly reduce the space. I purchased a sheet of 2" foam board to use as a divider. One 4 x 8' sheet was enough to do all the shelters (just the entrance divider.)
Right click to enlarge photos
Measurements were taken and adjusted to fit each container's contours. Most of them were pretty much the same and pinpoint accuracy was not important here.
The 2" foam divider was cut to shape with a Foam Cutter Pen. You can use whatever tools/knives you have, but I found a hot wire pen cuts really easy and nice! Make the cuts outside because the melting foam emits a lot of fumes! The inside entrance hole was placed as far from the main entrance as I could. I cut the hole the same dimensions as the entrance.
The 2" divider was then "foamed" in to position. This stuff is sticky and sprays out fast. It's a good thing we won't judge on spraying skills!!!! You can trim it with the pen or a sharp knife if this crazy foam bothers you.
I was more concerned if it would stick ("real good") to the poly containers.
The 2" foam divider was cut to shape with a Foam Cutter Pen. You can use whatever tools/knives you have, but I found a hot wire pen cuts really easy and nice! Make the cuts outside because the melting foam emits a lot of fumes! The inside entrance hole was placed as far from the main entrance as I could. I cut the hole the same dimensions as the entrance.
The 2" divider was then "foamed" in to position. This stuff is sticky and sprays out fast. It's a good thing we won't judge on spraying skills!!!! You can trim it with the pen or a sharp knife if this crazy foam bothers you.
I was more concerned if it would stick ("real good") to the poly containers.
Clean, clean, and clean some more=soap and water, rinse, then wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, then dry.
The escape door was left in place. A compromise was that it was covered on the interior with a flexible reflective bubble insulation or you can use a similar material. Just the top portion was taped on with gorilla duct tape.
This allows the cat to escape simply by pushing through the flexible insulation. Does it work: Last week one of my ferals pushed the straw too close to the door or two tried to maneuver--the flexible insulation gave way (as it should) and allowed the escape door to open and part of the insulation was forced outside. Just a slight push won't open the door, but if the cat has to leave quickly, there shouldn't be any problem. Perfect= no ... Compromise= yes.
It didn't rip; it was just partially bulged outside the shelter. I simply cut a new piece and made it slightly larger--perfect! Truth is, I may have skimped on the first door cover material on this particular unit.
This allows the cat to escape simply by pushing through the flexible insulation. Does it work: Last week one of my ferals pushed the straw too close to the door or two tried to maneuver--the flexible insulation gave way (as it should) and allowed the escape door to open and part of the insulation was forced outside. Just a slight push won't open the door, but if the cat has to leave quickly, there shouldn't be any problem. Perfect= no ... Compromise= yes.
It didn't rip; it was just partially bulged outside the shelter. I simply cut a new piece and made it slightly larger--perfect! Truth is, I may have skimped on the first door cover material on this particular unit.
You might be surprised...
Keep reading to the end!
Keep reading to the end!
16-24 hours is a good curing time and helps dissipate some odor
Prep the container
Use safety protection: nitrile gloves and safety glasses/googles
The thicker 2" foam board helps balance the wall (divider) when glued in with expanding foam sealant. Getting adhesives to stick to certain types of plastic (like the containers) is sometimes hit or miss or works....for a short period, e.g., hot glue! So far, the sealant is holding tight, five months since applying. The real test will be winter where the temperatures here can sometimes go down to single digits (Fahrenheit).
Feral Cat Shelter Added Insulation
You might be surprised...
Keep reading to the end!
Keep reading to the end!
I'm always trying to make improvements to my
original economy feral cat shelter plans
.
I try to make any improvements with limited added expenses, particularly for those who have limited financial resources, but have a big heart for these feral kitties. As costs are rapidly rising on most materials, this makes the job increasing difficult.
Keep reading to see the progression....
How to insulate a
It's glue day!
When making modifications, I considered the safety factor (having an escape hole) and trying to keep some of the cat's body heat inside the container. Last year, I began to experiment with just adding a thin layer of foam insulation board to the existing container. I glued some 1/2" insulation board to the sides and top (inside). You need to do this in warmer weather and/or inside if it is cold out (to let the adhesive dry/cure). If the board becomes unglued during the season, for any reason, you need to add more adhesive, let it cure, then return the container to the outside.
Of course, the top is place back on when everything is cured/ready.
Straw is added as per the original instructions
Straw is added as per the original instructions
Over the past five years, I thought about some insulation concepts. It is a tough topic, since adding insulation with a small container with two sizable holes seems incongruous. So I began experimenting with just small amount of insulation (rigid foam board). (This size will work if you only have one box, or you can find some similar insulation materials at your local big box store.) Without getting more technical than necessary, it is important to note that the foam board will be exposed to some moisture even when the top is in position., Some types absorb moisture and some are more resistant (XPS).
The white insulation I used in my experiment was some left over foam board from some other project. It is still okay begining this second winter. Also, any insulation should be covered with another protective layer, but I left this exposed to see the effects--P.S.: just a few scratches on a few--my ferals have many trees to scratch instead! Also, ingestion is a concern--but they are all well-fed, and I see no evidence that anyone nibbled on some!
The white insulation I used in my experiment was some left over foam board from some other project. It is still okay begining this second winter. Also, any insulation should be covered with another protective layer, but I left this exposed to see the effects--P.S.: just a few scratches on a few--my ferals have many trees to scratch instead! Also, ingestion is a concern--but they are all well-fed, and I see no evidence that anyone nibbled on some!
A poll taken among my ferals: some say yes, some say no, several are undecided...
Winter of 2022-23 Experiment
The purpose of this experiment was to add some insulation to see if it had any effect on the retention of some body heat in the container. Although there were no scientific measurements taken, I think that it was better than no insulation, i.e., a body leaning against the insulation had to be a tad warmer than the cold plastic.
Of course, you can see the obvious flaws to this approach: the foam board did not completely touch every part of the sides, the escape hole continued to let air in and some heat out, the big entrance hole let in wind and the cold., the insulation was too thin.
Covering the entrance hole with plastic, cloth or some other material was tried at several different times and rejected by the cats as well as me. Even if it did work, the amount of wind it would stop and heat loss would be negligible, not to mention it creates a whole new set of problems.
The purpose of this experiment was to add some insulation to see if it had any effect on the retention of some body heat in the container. Although there were no scientific measurements taken, I think that it was better than no insulation, i.e., a body leaning against the insulation had to be a tad warmer than the cold plastic.
Of course, you can see the obvious flaws to this approach: the foam board did not completely touch every part of the sides, the escape hole continued to let air in and some heat out, the big entrance hole let in wind and the cold., the insulation was too thin.
Covering the entrance hole with plastic, cloth or some other material was tried at several different times and rejected by the cats as well as me. Even if it did work, the amount of wind it would stop and heat loss would be negligible, not to mention it creates a whole new set of problems.
Winter of 2023-24 Experiment
In the summer of 2023 (in my spare time, ha ha), I decided to address some of the flaws in my modified "somewhat insulated" cat shelters. I planned on modifying the existing shelters and I purchased a few slightly larger containers (45 gal as opposed to the older 35 gal ones)--but I used a mixture of both.
Unfortunately, I loss several kitties the past year (they are all over 9+ years old), and although I didn't need as many shelters, I decided to add to most of them and keep a few in storage. In the past, I donated some of the older but in good shape ones to my local
Anytime you modify something rather than starting over--you compromise on some things. The basic shelters last several years (depending on various factors), so I didn't want to discard a shelter in relatively good shape. Last year's added insulation was still intact, but one or two needed some extra adhesive on the foam board under the top.
In the summer of 2023 (in my spare time, ha ha), I decided to address some of the flaws in my modified "somewhat insulated" cat shelters. I planned on modifying the existing shelters and I purchased a few slightly larger containers (45 gal as opposed to the older 35 gal ones)--but I used a mixture of both.
Unfortunately, I loss several kitties the past year (they are all over 9+ years old), and although I didn't need as many shelters, I decided to add to most of them and keep a few in storage. In the past, I donated some of the older but in good shape ones to my local
Habitat for Humanity
. I still have 19 active shelters.Anytime you modify something rather than starting over--you compromise on some things. The basic shelters last several years (depending on various factors), so I didn't want to discard a shelter in relatively good shape. Last year's added insulation was still intact, but one or two needed some extra adhesive on the foam board under the top.
So....
By adding additional insulation, it limits the space that can be occupied by a cat. Since some of them like to pair up to keep warm; this can possibly eliminate or make even this larger container difficult to house two medium-sized cats. This is a compromise + or-.
I left the 1/2" insulation alone, since it was in good shape, and adding more insulation to the sides or top would significantly reduce the space. I purchased a sheet of 2" foam board to use as a divider. One 4 x 8' sheet was enough to do all the shelters (just the entrance divider.)
I left the 1/2" insulation alone, since it was in good shape, and adding more insulation to the sides or top would significantly reduce the space. I purchased a sheet of 2" foam board to use as a divider. One 4 x 8' sheet was enough to do all the shelters (just the entrance divider.)
The thicker 2" foam board helps balance the wall (divider) when glued in with expanding foam sealant. Getting adhesives to stick to certain types of plastic (like the containers) is sometimes hit or miss or works....for a short period, e.g., hot glue! So far, the sealant is holding tight, five months since applying. The real test will be winter where the temperatures here can sometimes go down to single digits (Fahrenheit).
Use safety protection: nitrile gloves and safety glasses/googles
Right click to enlarge photos
Prep the container
This photo illustrates the basic layout of the "new" shelter modification.
Clean, clean, and clean some more=soap and water, rinse, then wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, then dry.
Measurements were taken and adjusted to fit each container's contours. Most of them were pretty much the same and pinpoint accuracy was not important here.
The 2" foam divider was cut to shape with a Foam Cutter Pen. You can use whatever tools/knives you have, but I found a hot wire pen cuts really easy and nice! Make the cuts outside because the melting foam emits a lot of fumes! The inside entrance hole was placed as far from the main entrance as I could. I cut the hole the same dimensions as the entrance.
The 2" divider was then "foamed" in to position. This stuff is sticky and sprays out fast. It's a good thing we won't judge on spraying skills!!!! You can trim it with the pen or a sharp knife if this crazy foam bothers you.
I was more concerned if it would stick ("real good") to the poly containers.
The 2" foam divider was cut to shape with a Foam Cutter Pen. You can use whatever tools/knives you have, but I found a hot wire pen cuts really easy and nice! Make the cuts outside because the melting foam emits a lot of fumes! The inside entrance hole was placed as far from the main entrance as I could. I cut the hole the same dimensions as the entrance.
The 2" divider was then "foamed" in to position. This stuff is sticky and sprays out fast. It's a good thing we won't judge on spraying skills!!!! You can trim it with the pen or a sharp knife if this crazy foam bothers you.
I was more concerned if it would stick ("real good") to the poly containers.
Right click to enlarge photos
Right click to enlarge photos
The escape door was left in place. A compromise was that it was covered on the interior with a flexible reflective bubble insulation or you can use a similar material. Just the top portion was taped on with gorilla duct tape.
This allows the cat to escape simply by pushing through the flexible insulation. Does it work: Last week one of my ferals pushed the straw too close to the door or two tried to maneuver--the flexible insulation gave way (as it should) and allowed the escape door to open and part of the insulation was forced outside. Just a slight push won't open the door, but if the cat has to leave quickly, there shouldn't be any problem. Perfect= no ... Compromise= yes.
It didn't rip; it was just partially bulged outside the shelter. I simply cut a new piece and made it slightly larger--perfect! Truth is, I may have skimped on the first door cover material on this particular unit.
This allows the cat to escape simply by pushing through the flexible insulation. Does it work: Last week one of my ferals pushed the straw too close to the door or two tried to maneuver--the flexible insulation gave way (as it should) and allowed the escape door to open and part of the insulation was forced outside. Just a slight push won't open the door, but if the cat has to leave quickly, there shouldn't be any problem. Perfect= no ... Compromise= yes.
It didn't rip; it was just partially bulged outside the shelter. I simply cut a new piece and made it slightly larger--perfect! Truth is, I may have skimped on the first door cover material on this particular unit.
About half of my shelters are about a foot away from my house on the opposite side of the most prevalent wind. Also, in the winter, I have them facing the house, so the wind is relatively mild (blowing near the entrance.) The other shelters, I have placed behind objects and or facing away from the wind side. A concrete block placed near the front of the entrance hole appears to block some of the direct wind.
Of course, the next generation mod will have a new design.